The doors are a bit strange. The frame is pretty standard stuff with haunched mortise and tenons but the bit in the middle is a little different. I could have made a raised panel or nice bit of veneered MDF but continuing with the Krenov theme I thought I’d try something a bit different. Here’s what I ended up with:
Not very Krenov. The big bits with the funky grain are Yew and the little bits are Sycamore. It’s all joined together with more mortise and tenons. To cut the mortises in the end grain of the Yew I used a Festool domino machine which cuts a round ended hole. I cut the tenons by hand and rounded of the corners where they were going onto a domino cutter mortise.
Trim the cheeks to size with the router plane 
Trim the mortise cheeks with a chisel. This works great so long as the wood is straight grained 
The middle connector has three rounded-off tenons. 
Testing the fit
The frame is standard haunched mortise and tenons.
Chisel from the knife line but leaving the shoulder proud so I don’t cut into the side lines 
Chisel in from the side line too. Now we have a clean line but the shoulder is still proud 
The shoulder is paired flat. Check with a small square. Then mark up the haunch and the end shoulder. 
Check the haunch heigh by trying it round the wrong way 
A nice pair 
Haunched mortise & tenon 
one joint 
The frame all together
All the joint are in the same direction so glue up was quite straight forward.
The doors are hung on Brusso knife hinges. £25 a pair but they are well made and look really neat.
Bottom half of the knife hinge 
The more astute of you will have noticed in the photo at the top of the page that the stand has acquired a table top and lost the notches in the top of the legs. Originally the cabinet was going to sit in the notches in the legs as in many Krenov pieces but I made a mistake in measuring up the cabinet. I forget to allow 10mm for the 2 housing grooves that the bottom of the cabinet sits in, so the bottom was 10mm too narrow to fit in the notches. Also the top was the right size and so 10mm bigger than the bottom so the cabinet had a slight flare from bottom to top. Fortunately I noticed this when I tried sliding the back panels in from the bottom. They fitted nicely at the bottom but as I pushed them in a gap started to appear. A bit of head scratching and it dawned on me what I’d done. Anyway, back to the table saw to remove the extra 10mm.
I wasn’t all that keen on the notches in the top of the legs so getting rid of them wasn’t terribly upsetting. I made a table top from the remaining chestnut and cut out each corner so it fitted between the top of the legs. If I’d planned this from the start the top of the legs could have been neatly shaped but instead two of them had bits of tear-out from where I have chiselled the notches carelessly. One of my colleagues suggested making cap pieces with the sycamore. These turned out pretty neat as you can see from the photos.
I made a long rebated piece and cut bits off to fit 
Trimming up one corner piece 
corner trimmed to size 
all four caps in place.
The only remaining puzzle is how to attach the little corner bits?
I started making a shelf but it went a bit wrong and now I’ve run out of time and chestnut so the interior will have to wait.
It’s not finished and maybe it’s a bit early to judge but I’m not sure I can live with those doors. They might have to go, and those sliding dovetails? Why did I do that? I’ll write some more on this project when it is finished and decide if it’s good enough to come in the house or maybe it can live in the garage as a tool cupboard.
Next: making a chair.
Baylis Handmade 